EPISODE 3, SCENE 3 Outfitted in old corduroys and a North Face parka from the Gerald Ford era, Town Marshall Bill Tramaine telemarked through the steep moguls of Spiral Stairs like a mountain goat, drawing whoops and encouraging cheers from the chairlift crowd passing overhead. "Big balls, Bill!" screamed someone. Tramaine didn't hear them. He was deep within himself, hearing only his own breathing, Zenned into the mountain like a laser. He'd come to Telluride from Philly, a burned out cop with multiple bravery citations and an ulcer, ready to kick back. He'd found his dream here in the San Juans. Clear starry nights with no drive-bys. His only regret was that he hadn't found it ten years earlier, when his knees could take these moguls without Advil.